Epic Victoria Falls Road Trip

We just returned from our epic 2-week road trip to Victoria Falls which took us on a  4,000 km drive through through the countryside of Namibia, Zambia, Botswana, and Zimbabwe. We also got to look across the Kavango River into southern Angola. During the trip we visited four national parks:

• Etosha (Namibia)
• Bwabwata (Namibia)
• Chobe (Botswana)
• Mosi-oa-Tunya (Zambia)

The roads were paved all the way from Windhoek to Livingstone, Zambia and the driving was good except for a 100 km stretch from Katima Mulilo (Namibia) and Kazungula (Zambia). This stretch of road was more potholes than pavement and it took us 3-hours or more to navigate. We spent most of the time driving off to the side of the road in makeshift tracks. It was by far the worst road we have driven on during on time in Africa.

Example of Poor Road Conditions in Zambia

Driving across the borders, particularly into and out of Zambia, was an experience to say the least. The border crossings are very chaotic with very little informational signage telling you what to do. In Zambia, you are immediately met by groups of locals offering to act as your personal assistant and money changer. One watches your car, another follows you to the various windows with the paperwork, another offers to exchange money so you can pay the fees. All expect to be paid something. Some fees have to be paid in local currency while others are paid in U.S. dollars. Have to pay for visas (we skipped this as we got our visas before leaving Windhoek), road tax, carbon tax, car insurance, and customs. Lets just say, with the black market exchange rates we paid a premium to cross the border.

On the way back through a different crossing into Botswana at Kazungula, we also had to take a ferry across the Chobe River which had its own separate fee. The ferry could carry two semi-trucks and two passenger cars at a time plus local walking passengers. Karen had to stand outside with the locals during the crossing. During the crossing Zambia is behind you, Botswana in front of you, Namibia directly to the right, and Zimbabwe directly to the left. The Namibia-Botswana crossing was much more organized and straightforward.

At the border crossing into and out of Zambia you encounter miles long lines of semi-trucks. It can take up to two weeks for some trucks to cross the border. Unfortunately, the line of waiting trucks becomes a red-light district that preys on the local village girls. Fortunately, passenger vehicles don't have to wait and can jump right to the front of the line.

Trucks Waiting to Cross the Border into Zambia

Northern Namibia and southern Zambia are very traditional rural village areas. Lots of people and livestock on the roads and lots of wood huts with thatched roofs..

Enough about the drive - let's talk about Victoria Falls. Although it is low water season, the Falls were still fantastic. The translated local name for the Falls is "The Clouds that Thunder" due to the mist and noise created by the falling water. We took a helicopter ride over the Falls and also a guided walking tour. The Falls are unique in that they fall over the edge of the canyon. The canyon is created by rifts or cracks formed by the cooling of ancient basaltic rock.

Karen wanted to bungee jump off the bridge but I wouldn't let her.....

We also took a river cruise on the Zambezi River. Beautiful sunsets.

It is surreal to think that we were walking and exploring the same areas made famous during Dr. David Livingstone's epic journeys of European discovery only 150 or so years ago. Will post about our flora and fauna discoveries and other aspects of our trip on future posts.

Birds Take Two and some Flora too!

Sometimes it becomes easy to focus on the large more famous animals of Africa--the big five and such. However, we have really enjoyed viewing and photographing the birds here. Our trip last week to the coast gave us an opportunity to capture more of the bird life here. Again, I reserve the right to misidentify!

I'll start with the flamingos.



They are really graceful flyers and this is really the only time you get to see the full extent of their colorization. The black against the deep pink and white is quite stunning.


This in an immature flamingo. They are brown. If you look closely, you can see that the bubbles around it are in circular patterns. This bird was turning around in circles, stomping its feet to bring up little critters from the mud. It was a fun little dance to watch and made me wonder how it keep from falling over dizzy.

Greater flamingo

There are two different types of flamingos--greater and lesser.

Lesser flamingos

We have previously posted some pelican pictures, but this group was too fun to pass up. They were sitting out on a sand bar just chillin. Their colors are quite amazing and different than I anticipated.

Cape Cormorants  These fly in long rows up and down the beach. Reminded me of geese.

White-breasted Cormorant

Bar-tailed Godwit

Grey Heron

Little Egret

Red-billed Teal

White-footed Plover

Pied Avocut

Ruddy Turnstone

Helmeted Guinea Fowl

Also commonly known as African chickens. They are pretty much all over the place.

Kelp Gull  These are large gulls and are also all over the place.

While driving out to Cape Cross, we stopped in the desert--and by desert, I mean desert!  It was very barren, but we did examine  the few plants that actually survive there. They are all succulents and grow in small mounds through the sand. They depend up the water they collect from the fog for survival.

Ink Bush The leaves of this plant have ridges like a reed to collect the moisture from the fog

Dollar Bush (I think)

Another succulent. Not sure what it is called. You can get an idea of how big the plant mounds are by comparing them to our shoes.

Nara Melone. This plant was not near the others, but is found throughout the desert. Animals depend on the melons for their water. It also has some pretty serious thorns. I know--I have stepped on one and it went through the sole of my sneaker.